This is what I do when developing 'rediscovered' films containing important information. If no IR equipment is at hand, developing by temporary inspection in a very dim green safelight at a distance of at least 1,5m and for a short time, might do, but only after about half the estimated developing time. Wet and (partially) developed film tends
Make a spacer for your 16 mm cut-down reel by slicing a ring off the top of a film canister. About 9-10 mm should do fine. Cutting the ring will enable it to go over the spindle of the reel, but its springiness should keep it in place to act as a spacer. A clip on the core for the tank holds the top spiral in place.
By Daniel J. Schneider | Updated Mar 7, 2022 11:28 AM EST. How To. If you’re shooting film already, you know that you need to develop a tolerance for uncertainty. Film can be fogged, or wrecked in development. Your shutter might drag or the mirror not swing up correctly.

Mix one part concentrate with 4 parts water, develop, and dispose. Don't try and keep or re-use working-strength solution. Measure very carefully, with a proper graduate. Use the 4 parts water to wash out the graduate used to measure the one part concentrate..

I would not risk damaging the film -- old film can be brittle. Why not take the camera to a photo lab or camera store. Best if the behind the counter people have gray hair. Have them unload in a changing bag or darkroom. Now have them send the film out for developing and printing. They will also re-battery the camera and check it out.
The biggest thing you must be aware of is notifying the lab when you drop the film off, so they properly develop it. When you push or pull the film, make sure to also write it on the film cartridge. The exact rules for notifying the lab depends from location to location. So be sure to check with them how they prefer to be informed. Developing Film
"Normal" developing isn't really that much harder though. I won't bother developing colour film myself. Developing colour is really easy, actually probably easier than developing black and white "normally" because it's the exact same procedure for every film stock. Heat your chems with a $20 sous vide circulator, then just follow the process.
702. Posted March 29, 2008. I have to develop a roll of expired black-and-white film: 36-exp. Ilford Delta. 100 Professional (35mm). I intend to use Sprint chemistry all the way through. (developer, stop, fixer, fixer-remover). The film was exposed while still fresh, but I seem never to have gotten around to developing it; it expired four or five.
Expired HP5+. It’s quite easy to see the difference between the expired HP5 and Delta 400 results, as it almost feels like the grain of one is “white on black” while the other is black on white. Finer points of detailing on the Delta make t my preferred “high speed” expired option. I used Delta 400, expired in the 1980s, at EI200 to Exposing it to X-Rays will cause streaking in your final images. My personal advice is to a) use up any film in your camera before flying, and b) buy the Instax film at your destination or once you’ve gone through security. There are usually shops that sell gadgets and camera equipment in the departure lounge.
If we are unable to develop your submitted film, we will return the film. There is a service and processing charges of $20.99 for the films that we are not able to proceed. This process might take upto 3-4 weeks. Any brand of 35mm film, 12, 24 or 36 exposure and QuickSnap, single-use, disposable and waterproof cameras, 27 exposures C-41
Expired film photography can produce unique results. There is never quite a similar roll of expired film, but each one degrades and bends differently. Colors fade as they age. There is something odd about photographic film. A split second of accidental exposure to light can ruin it, and it does not like heat at all.
Kodak, Fuji, Orwo, Adox, Agfa, and Fomapan—we can develop any stock you might have. We process all current and expired Super 8 and 8mm film stocks including Color Negative, Color Reversal and Black & White Reversal. All film is cleaned and prepped for projection or scan at no extra charge. If you extend your development time to increase film speed you are likely to increase fog as well. So your best bet is to keep development times as short as possible by using a stronger dilution. Developer choice also affects base fog. You're probably best off over exposing 1 or 2 stops over and developing normally. pqhq.
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